Katie Eveleth’s
Stranded on Zamami
“You’re going to Okinawa?! You should go to a small island too!”
All my friends recommended; citing fun activities and great views
・・・・・・・
I researched places and organized the weekend
Going with two friends who wanted to travel
A nice tropical vacation but we had no idea
How quickly our itinerary would unravel…
Flew from Osaka to Naha, then took a bus to the port
Passed by shrines, beaches and a beautiful resort
Bought round trip tickets and boarded a giant high speed ferry
We sat and relaxed, drinking piña coladas with cherries
One stop and two hours later, we disembarked
“This island is gorgeous!” my friend remarked
Blue skies and clear waters filled with rainbow fish
A nice warm breeze making the trees gently swish
Left our backpacks at a hotel and went out to eat
Okinawan soba and chanpuru stir fry with no meat
We met a new friend who gave us an amazing map
It had restaurants, activities, phone numbers and all that
We called the boat shop to rent snorkels and clear canoes
The answer she gave us should have been our first clue
“Sorry, the wind is too strong” she said in Japanese
I talked to every shop on the island and they all agreed
“Looks like we can’t do any water activities today,
Let’s ask some locals and see what they say”
What else could we do to pass the time?
At least it’s only one day, tomorrow will be fine
We went to the grocery store to check it out
Surely there would be people, I had no doubt
The doors were open but no one was there
So we walked around the mountain to the beach where
We saw a cloudy sunset and giant waves in the distance
Then a sudden downpour started and stayed consistent
By the time we ran back to the town we were already soaked
“Should we look for some umbrellas?” I lightly joked
The island was so small, there were no convenience stores
When the rain stopped, I saw a shop open their doors!
Three locals, Ako, Kato, and Naru welcomed us inside with smiles
They were selling crafts, jackets, and T shirts with cute art styles
The six of us laughed and talked for more than an hour
Ako invited us to a restaurant beyond the field of flowers
Delicious noodles and cooked vegetables, we tried many new foods
Even a liqueur fermented tofu with the strange sauce it exudes
After dinner, she brought us all over town
Sang at karaoke bars and danced; break it down!
We were having so much fun meeting all her friends
I had hoped this trip would never end!
Well, I soon got my wish when the hotel owner found us
He looked nervous, clearly he had something to discuss
Surprising me, in English, with the last thing I expected him to say
“Maybe long stay… because boat not coming” What?! No way!
In the morning I woke up hoping it wasn’t true
But the boat didn’t come. “What should we do?!”
Downstairs I picked up a bag of food rations from the row
Checked out of the hotel, now with nowhere to go
Plants dripped with water into puddles all around
From last night's storm that could no longer be found
The sea looked calm and the sun was shining
It was such a beautiful day, I thought he could be lying
Drank tea and ate our rations on the docks
My feet dangled over the water, wearing shoes and socks
I called the resort on the main island and explained the situation
Found out that this happens a lot, what an easy cancellation
All water activities were still unavailable, but then
We passed by a shop that rented bikes for 2,000 yen!
Exploring the island we saw everything that there was
Lizards, goats, cranes and our new friends from last night because
Everyone in town was outside doing all sorts of things
Aunts harvesting crops and kids ‘fishing’ with strings
Grandpas clearing branches, laundry put out on a line
Dogs playing with crabs and store owners cleaning their signs
We biked all day, up and down the mountains
Chilling at beaches and washing off sand in the fountain
Eating sea grapes, goya vegetable, and jimami peanut tofu
Watching home movies and K-pop videos with a grandma too
At night, I looked up to see the galaxy and stars
Accompanied by music, mostly drums and guitar
We met up with our Okinawan friends for drinks
“Will the ferry come tomorrow, what do you think?”
The ferry did not arrive in the morning
Once again, there was an announcement warning
“The wind is too strong and the waves are tough”
Everything’s cancelled, yada yada, all that stuff
This went on for days, each adding a little more stress
One being that on Monday at 9am I had a huge test!
I needed to be back in Osaka by then or I’d automatically fail
Second: the town was cash only, no ATM, you know what that entails
Knock knock knock! We woke up to a bang on the door
The hotel owner told us there was a boat on the shore
It was not the ferry, the sea still had too much danger
But we could choose to take the risk and trust a stranger
“Let’s go for it” I said but we still had a debate
To me, there were so many reasons not to wait
Our flight, the test, no money, and another storm
How bad could it be? The water’s warm!
We said goodbye to our local friends filled with feelings
They said “we all had a once in a lifetime meeting”
Ichi go ichi e, such a special Okinawan phrase
Meant to treasure life’s moments, like our wonderful days
Thinking back, if it didn’t rain, we might not have met
We had plans to swim, canoe and leave, it was already set
This was such a fun and unique experience, I’m really grateful
I have to come back to Zamami Island, don’t you think so?
Nothing is worse than being stranded, you’d bet
But this story is not over yet
Ran to the dock, paid, then met the captain and crew
Seeing the tiny boat I thought, “what did we get ourselves into?”
Jumped onto the boat and put our bags in a stack
We began our journey. Well, this is it, no turning back
With nine passengers and three crew members
This was about to be a trip I’ll always remember
An older lady handed me a life jacket, but it wouldn’t zip
I tried on a bunch, even the other style didn’t clip
Forget the lifejacket, I might be the best swimmer here
I was a certified lake lifeguard for almost seven years
Then we heard some strange sounds like something broke
But no one was panicking, even though there was smoke!
The water became violent leaving the land’s protection
The captain drove fast, making turns in all directions
Barely missing waves taller than us as they crashed
Water carried by wind, we were brutally smashed
Extremely rocking from side to side
I wasn’t sure if we’d make it out alive
We sat on benches but had nothing to hold
Water slapped my face, it was freezing cold
Suddenly tilting 80 degrees towards the sky
I fell forward but was caught by the German guy
Nine inches of salt water covered the ground
The rubber chicken in the back was being whipped around
A crew member, hands out, laid flat on the floor
Choosing to drown in the water, he was hardcore
Everyone screamed each time we dropped down a wave
A life or death rollercoaster, where we couldn’t be saved
Like these massive walls of water weren’t scary enough on their own
A California couple checked the radar on their phone
Showed us that the worst zone, purple, was rapidly approaching
My friend was already freaking out, “it’ll be ok” I was coaching
I spared the Japanese people by avoiding translating
But from the top of the wave I saw where the purple was waiting
Waves four times the size of our boat’s height
Surges of cresting water, slamming down with all their might
In the low points of the troughs, water blocked our view
I could feel the boat using all its power to climb and I knew
When we got to the top on our ascent
That we were fighting these waves, one hundred percent
Every two steps forward, the waves pushed us one back
The ocean was our enemy and we were under attack
Our captain could do this, I had to believe
We’ve made it this far just through dodges and weaves
Water was hitting us every second, I couldn’t see
The water on the floor was almost up to my knees
I clenched the bench’s edge as tight as I could
If I fell into the ocean now, it wouldn’t be good
There were moments where the boat was in the air
I wished we had seatbelts or even a normal chair
When we hit the water again, it was hard to hold on
One little slip and you would be gone
It was so crazy, a fish was launched in
And green seaweed was thrown onto our skin
But everyone’s bags were safe in the closet inside
While we were outside, fighting for our lives
What was the captain’s experience in the front?
I wasn’t sure how he was bearing the brunt
After another hour it settled down
Luckily everyone made it, no one drowned
As we approached Naha’s port, the sun came out
We were finally past that treacherous route
Soon, we got off the boat and gave each other a squeeze
We were safe on land, it was hard to believe
The captain waved from above, dressed like a pro
Laughing because this wasn’t his first rodeo
He pulled away from the port, he couldn’t stay
He and his crew had to go home the same way!
Speechless, we all walked down the street
Looking like we had just been dunked and beat
Photos and videos could never show the wave’s scale
But somehow I lived to tell you this tale